lord howe island story
The group - June 2006
Contributed by Dolores Bennett from the Gold Coast in Qld.
Delores did Auswalk's Lord Howe Island walking holiday in June 2006
Following a comfortable flight in a Qantaslink 36 seater I arrived at Lord Howe Island a little after 11am on Sunday June 4. Prior to boarding at Brisbane airport, Monica, from Auswalk, recognized the thermometer on my backpack and realised I was one of her group. Sitting next to each other, she kindly gave up her window seat so I could enjoy the natural beauty of this World Heritage listed island whilst our plane was landing. Being in the row adjacent to the emergency exits, we were responsible for opening them if required. Fortunately our door opening skills were not needed!
Unpacking at Pinetrees Resort, I made a mental note to buy a comb. Yes, as usual, I’d forgotten to pack one. Later that afternoon I met the other members of our group and our local guide. They were Peta from Melbourne, Peny & Bob from Adelaide, Eva from Adelaide, Win from the Blue Mountains, Victor from Canberra and our local guide Ian.
I soon came to think of Ian as a “walking encyclopedia”. He enthusiastically shared his vast knowledge of the island’s history, geography, social mores, birds, marine life, flora and fauna with us. From the mainland, he originally came to Lord Howe Island as the weather man and fell in love with the place. Now a long term resident, he runs the museum, eco tours, does guiding, research, wood turning and has written several books and articles. One wonders when he has time to sleep.
Our first afternoon included an orientation walk to Ned’s beach (where one can hand feed the fish) and a mini lecture at the museum. Pre-holiday reading and information confirmed by Ian told me the island is of volcanic origin and just 1455 hectares in area. It is home to many unique plant species and abounds with a variety of bird and marine life. In the early days, the islanders supplied whaling ships with fresh food. This was followed by Lord Howe Island red onion exports. Nowadays, kentia palm exports plus tourism are the main industries. The population of 350 are friendly folk who most often get about bare foot and with pedal power. I purchased a comb at one of the two general stores, found the Post Office is only open from 10am until 3pm, sighted the Bowling Club and Island Administration Offices and was happy to discover a photograph album in the museum with photos of former Miss Australia, Rosemary Fenton. Originally from Lord Howe Island, she was one of my childhood idols.
Win & Dolores tackle the "Lower Road"
Monday June 5: In the morning it was an easy walk to Transit Hill where the lookout tower provided 360 degree views of this natural island paradise. Being the only Queenslander in what was to become a friendly, trusting group, I was often seen taking off and putting on my jacket as the temperature fluctuated depending on where we were, the wind, and how much energy one was using. Attired in his multi coloured shorts and polo shirt, Victor didn’t seem to notice temperature drops. Being from Canberra he felt it was warm all the time! It was then down to the creamy white sands of Blinky Beach for a picnic lunch. Ian must have been surprised when I, tongue in cheek, asked was Blinky Beach named after the koala, Blinky Bill. Ever so patient, he informed me it was named after Captain Ross Blinkensthorp, master of the ship that delivered the first settlers to the island.
That afternoon we walked through a palm forest where a pair of friendly wood hens, who didn’t object to being photographed at close proximity, paraded before us. Emerging into an open area we had spectacular views up the cliffs of Mt Lidgbird (770m) and out to sea. We then tackled what is known as the Lower Road of Mt Lidgbird, a fairly challenging walk/climb. The conveniently provided ropes were a beaut asset when climbing up steep spots. At one rest point Win and I were sitting on the cliff and a providence petrel flew up and decided to sit on Win’s knee before paying my knee a brief visit. There was no fear of us, mere humans! What an exhilarating feeling! Rounding the bend we saw the area where one crosses over to start the Mt Gower walk/climb. It was now time to return and join those who had dropped off (not literally) along the way. For the first time ever I used my whistle to locate those ahead (Win & Ian) as I found myself lost on a couple of occasions. My late husband used to say I could even get lost on a roundabout! As I slithered, bum crawled and stumbled my way down I decided the Mt Gower walk/climb would be beyond my capabilities. A hot shower and a nip of sherry before dinner was most welcome.
Aptly named Pinetrees Resort Hotel, our accommodation was very comfortable and much to my delight had electric blankets on the beds (I’d forgotten my hot water bottle). The clothes line behind our units even had pegs. Throughout our time at Pinetrees the yummy tucker, relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff made me feel like a VIP. The jazz pianist who performed most evenings was always happy to oblige requests. And the cheerful chatter of guests in the dining room exchanging information on their days activities added to the positive ambience.
A providence petrel lands in Dolores' lap!
Tuesday June 6 – Queensland Day: Mild temperatures and a clear day were “just what the doctor ordered” for trekking up the ridge on the northern end of the island to Kim’s lookout. As we puffed and panted our way up Ian included many rest stops while he informed us about the vegetation of this area and birds spotted en route. By this time gallant Victor had settled into acting as “tail end Charlie” for our walks, ensuring none were left behind. Emerging from mystical forest into open sunlight and with panoramic views of the lush green island, creamy white sands and the blue green ocean is a memory, hopefully, never to be forgotten. It was then across the ridge to Malabar Hill and down to a forest of thatch palms where we waited for a passing shower to abate. A BBQ lunch at Ned’s beach was enjoyed by all, including the resident ducks seeking a morsel or two.
Our next destination, the wharf, saw me bravely boarding a boat for an afternoon cruise around the island. Being the world’s worst sailor I should never have gone. I guess I thought the Travelcalm tablet I’d consumed would allay fear as well as nausea. Once outside the protective reef we started bobbing up and down like a cork in a washing machine. All the time I clung to the rail up front. The handsome young skipper who is proudly 5th generation islander, assured me he had been out in rougher seas. After what seemed like an eternity of being high on a swell then dropping deep into murky ocean we eventually entered the calm water of the lagoon and to my extreme relief the safety of Terra Firma was soon beneath my feet. I made straight for the look in the wharf building, emerging only after gaining control of my composure and stomach. Victor was waiting for me – we had planned to go to a shop and purchase a gift for his wife plus a battery for my camera. Victor chose a stylish pink T shirt for his wife. I purchased a disposable camera; my Pentax must have an age related illness!
Prior to dinner that evening I was introduced to one of the two sisters and her husband who own Pinetrees Resort, Kerry McFadyen. Her book on the history of Pinetrees is interesting reading. Intimate enough for a cosy arrangement with wine drinkers, Pinetrees had a system where one could have their name inscribed on a bottle of wine, then have a drink or two each night until it was empty. Much better than resorting to cask wine for the minimal drinker!
On the round-the-island boat trip
June 7: Opening the door of my suite to find out why a whistle was being blown so dramatically, I discovered Victor standing at attention demanding to know why I was late in joining the others for the days’ walk. I quickly grabbed my backpack and to the amusement of other guests we marched to our meeting place, to the accompaniment of Victor’s musical whistle. Military precision it was not, entertainment for onlookers it was! The days’ adventure up Mt Lidgbird through wet rainforest, along a ridge, then up some very steep sections to Goat House Cave, a large overhand in the volcanic cliffs that was quite exhilarating. Again, the ropes provided in the steep sections made the ascent easier and safer. After edging our way around the ledge at the end of the overhang we were rewarded with a view of Balls Pyramid – a sharp basalt spire thrusting out of the sea 551 metres into the sky, 20km south of the island. Next on the agenda was “Champagne at Sunset” at the Boat House overlooking the lagoon. Once the sun was down, a drop in temperature and empty bottles prompted us to return to the warmth of Pinetrees.
June 8: Blue sky, a gentle breeze and good company ensured a wonderful feeling of well being for an interesting day ahead. Our cheerful group soon found themselves huffing and puffing their way up through the rainforest on the ridge again, only this time we descended down the western slope to North Beach picnic area. It was then a short walk to the Old Gulch, a small rocky beach. A passing overhead shower and rock hopping not being my forte was a good enough excuse for me to sit on the beach and think beautiful thoughts while the others explored the area with Ian and Monica. Returning to the picnic area I tripped over a tree root and fell, hurt pride and a bruised knee being my only injuries. Back at the picnic area we changed into our reef walking shoes to explore the pools within the reef that harbour a microcosm of marine life. To my surprise, I wasn’t at all bored – Ian made it all sound so fascinating. Following a BBQ lunch it was up Mt Eliza. An aching, swelling knee forced me to stop two thirds of the way up. For the second time in one day I sat admiring the panorama and thinking beautiful thoughts while waiting for the others. I was assured the boat ride from North Beach back to the jetty (not far from our accommodation) would be smooth. Thankfully it was.
The sun sets as we sipped champagne
June 9: At 7.15am most of our group emerged from their rooms to wave goodbye to Wine, the only one of us fit and brave enough to tackle Mt Gower, 875 metres above sea level and the hardest walk on Lord Howe. Blessed with another beautiful day, the rest of us set out for Boat Harbour via Mutton Bird Point. Overnight rain ensured the narrow undulating track through low level rainforest was quite squelchy. Fortunately there were no injuries from the skids and falls some of us experienced, only an odd muddy bottom or two. From the Point’s viewing platform one could see Mutton Bird Island, a breeding area for masked boobies and various other birds. I gave up trying to take a photo of our clan at this time as they were so interested in the birds they paid no attention to my camera at all! It was then on through unusual prop-rooted pandanus trees to Boat Harbour, a secluded beach of small volcanic boulders and worn coral. Luckily no one got wet shoes whilst negotiating the only creek crossing we encountered. A passing shower forced us to don our wet weather gear on arrival at Boat Harbour, however it didn’t deter us from collecting enough dry driftwood so Monica could boil water for a welcome cuppa with our lunch. Our return journey took us through beautiful wet rainforest to the foot of Mt Lidgbird and onto Lagoon Road. From there we walked in warm sunshine back to Pinetrees. Along the way we passed the airport and waved to a plane taking off. I felt a little sad as I would be on board the following day.
June 10: My last breakfast with our group was a cheerful affair, even though the toaster had been set on low again and I had to put my bread through twice. Soon it was time for Monica and I to go to the airport. And so it was goodbye to Peta, Penny and Bob, Eva, Win and Victor for they were catching the later plane. At the airport Ian kindly gave me a CD of photos he had taken during our walks. Bidding farewell to Lord Howe Island I felt luck to have the opportunity to enjoy another of the Creator’s masterpieces.
PS. Will I recommend Auswalk to others – DEFINITELY!
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