Coast to Coast: Best Available B&B’s and Guesthouses – 19 Days

Arrive at St Bees at your own leisure and check into your accommodation. Enjoy a stroll on the beach or explore the lighthouse and the Priory founded in 1020AD. Or simply take the opportunity to wander around the very pleasant township and relax in one of the many pubs in preparation for the first day’s walk.

Accommodation: St Bees in an ensuite room

Starting out along the cliffs at St Bees (great views of nesting seabird colonies in spring and early summer), the walk takes you through the agricultural landscapes around the villages of Moor Row and Cleator, before the ascent of Dent Fell Hill (353 m) for some grand views of the coast now behind you. Descend to the beautiful gorge of Nannycatch Gate and continue easily to Ennerdale Bridge Village.

Walks: Moderate to challenging / 23 km / 8 hrs
Ascent: 1105 m / Descent: 1005 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Ennerdale Bridge in an ensuite room

Today we enter the Lake District National Park, starting with a delightful walk along the southern shores of Ennerdale Water. A long forest road leads through conifer plantations to the famous Black Sail Hut. This is a nice spot to pause for lunch and marvel at the fantastic glacier-carved valleys all around. A steep climb along the line of Loft Beck takes you to a high saddle with extensive vistas that feature many famous peaks and lakes in the area. The old Moses Trod path then brings you to the Honnister Slate mines where we meet the winding road down to the Borrowdale Valley and today’s destination.

Walks: Moderate to challenging / 23 km / 8 hrs
Ascent: 715 m / Descent: 730 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Borrowdale Valley in an ensuite room

A gentle start through Stonethwaite Valley following the beck of the same name. Eagle Crag looming up on the far side of the valley. The gradient increases for the push to the rocky outcrop of Lining Crag. You’ll definitely deserve a break here to catch your breath and take in the views of Scafell Pike (England’s highest peak at 978 m) and more. Easier gradients follow to Greenup Edge and on, to the head of the Far Easedale Valley. From here, take either the good weather High Route over Calf and Helm Crags (add 1 hr but no additional climbing), or continue down towards Grasmere following the line of Far Easedale Beck. Grasmere was home to the poet Wordsworth for many years. He described this valley as, “the fairest place on earth”.

There are many things to see here, including Wordsworth’s famous Dove Cottage, now a museum. Perhaps consider a day off to spend some time in Grasmere. It’s well worth it!

Walks: Moderate / 15 km / 5 ½ hrs
Ascent: 622 m / Descent: 672 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Grassmere in an ensuite room

Both options today take you up the delightful valley of Tongue Gill to Grisedale Hause. From here, either continue down Grisedale Valley to Patterdale-Glenridding following the line of the beck that drains the tarn, or, in good weather, you may consider the high ridge walk via Saint Sunday Crag.

Patterdale-Glenridding is also a good option for a rest day, especially if you are keen to climb Helvellyn via the Classic Route, going up via Striding Edge and descending again via Swirral Edge.

This day offers two options – a low & high route

The direct (low) route via Grisedale Valley
Walks: Moderate / 14 km / 4 hrs
Ascent: 580 m / Descent: 490 m

The high route via Saint Sunday Crag
Walks: Moderate to challenging / 14 km / 5 hrs
Ascent: 850 m / Descent: 760 m

Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Patterdale – Glenridding in an ensuite room

A demanding leave-taking of the Lake District via Angle Tarn and Kidsty Pike (784 m), the Coast to Coast’s highest point. A steep descent from the high plateau via Kidsty Howes takes you towards Haweswater. The walk continues ‘undulating’ across the slopes above the lake to Burnbanks village. From there, continue along country lanes and paths past the ruins of the historic Shap Abbey to your accommodation for the night in the town of Shap. 

This day offers two options – a low & high route. This overview is for the high route via Kidsty Pike

Walks: Moderate to challenging / 25 km / 6.5 – 9 hrs
Ascent: 925 m / Descent: 813 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Haweswater or Shap in an ensuite room

Today is a shorter easier walk to allow you to recover after the challenges of yesterday. Starting in the village of Shap, cross the busy M6 via a pedestrian footbridge and walk the mystic moors through one of England’s “Empty Quarters”. The ancient stone circles and burial mounds here are evidence of a time when this area was far more densely settled.

Walks: Moderate / 12.5 km / 2.5-3.5 hrs
Ascent: 193 m / Descent: 216 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Tebay in an ensuite room

The onward route crosses the base of an upland area of limestone (the Orton Scar) before continuing over the moors towards Sunbiggin Tarn. In spring, this area is dotted with limestone-loving wildflowers, and the skies are filled with birdsong. These wild, windswept moors were also once home to thriving communities as attested by the Severals village complex (not excavated) and enigmatic “pillow mounds” near Smardale Bridge. A gentle climb up and over the fells brings you to the old market town of Kirkby Stephen. Granted a market charter in 1351, this vibrant town boasts numerous cafes, restaurants, pubs, and even a few outdoor gear stores!

Walks: Moderate / 20 km / 5-6 hrs
Ascent: 335 m / Descent: 395 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Kirkby Stephen in an ensuite room

This is a real red-letter day in which you cross that backbone of the British Isles known as the Pennines. In doing so, you also cross an important division of watersheds. From here, all rivers flow east to drain into the North Sea. It’s downhill all the way from here then? Unfortunately not! In clear weather, ascend on country lanes then boggy tracks to the summit of the Nine Standards Rigg (ridge) which features a series of large drystone cairns thought to be at least 800 years old. Beyond this lies a notorious area of peat hags (bogs) that might easily trap the unwary walker in wet years. Happily, the paths here are finally being reinforced with flagstones. In poor weather, an easy lower-level route is the better option.

Walks: Moderate / 18 km / 5-7 hrs
Ascent: 640m / Descent: 470m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Keld in an ensuite room

The high route via the moors & old industrial ruins

A hill walk over the moors via an evocative landscape dotted with ruins of former mining activities.  Mining reached its peak here in the late 18^th and early 19^th century, employing thousands of people. Most of the remains encountered today, such as ruined smelt mills, chimneys, flues, old mine shafts, spoil heaps, and modified watercourses, date from this time. The industry collapsed towards the end of the 19^th century.

The alternative low route via the Swale River

Sometimes described as the “Royal Road to Reeth”, this low-level route features a cornucopia of riverside loveliness. In spring and early summer, the meadows are lush with wildflowers. If the clouds are low over the hills, this is definitely the path to take.

This day offers two options – a low & high route

The high route via the moors & old industrial ruins
Walks: Moderate / 18 km / 5-6 hrs
Ascent: 640 m / Descent: 775 m

The alternative low route via the Swale River
Walks: Moderate / 19 km / 4-5 hrs
Ascent: 260 m / Descent: 395 m

Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Reeth in an ensuite room

An easy section, but one abundantly endowed with variety and beauty. Broadly following the line of the Swale River, today’s walk features pastures, meadowlands, woodlands, and country lanes. Taking you past the old priory at Marrick (now an outdoor adventure centre), through the small village of Marske with its lovely old church, and Whitcliffe Wood, to Richmond. Historic Richmond, dominated by the ruins of its famous old castle (dating from 1071), is the largest town on the C2C. Richmond is well worth exploring and would be a good place for a rest day.

Walks: Easy to Moderate / 17 km / 5 hrs
Ascent: 400 m / Descent: 475 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Richmond in an ensuite room

Easy walking through the Vale of Mobray. This area is known for its fertile agricultural land and hedgerows. During the morning, the walk continues along the River Swale, but beyond the village of Bolton-on-Swale, you will strike out across the fields towards Danby Wiske. When Wainwright originally did this walk, there was no option but to walk along the country lanes for this last section. Now, thanks to landowners honouring the public rights of way and supporting the C2C, we have a lovely alternative. Consider stopping at historic Kiplin Hall for a traditional cream tea on the way!

Walks: Moderate / 23 km / 7-8 hrs
Ascent: 175 m / Descent: 270 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Danby Wiske in an ensuite room

A shorter day today, across the last of the Vale of Mowbray to the foot of the Cleveland Hills via which you will climb up onto the North York Moors. A day to relax and prepare mentally for the challenges to come on the North York Moors. If continuing to the nearby village of Osmotherley, a slightly longer day will be required.

North York Moors

A wild area of open, virtually uninhabited, high moorland studded with heather, some of which is protected by the national park. Ancient standing stones, medieval crosses, and old 18th-century estate boundary markers are frequently encountered.

Walks: Easy / 14.5 km / 4-5 hrs
Ascent: 110 m / Descent: 75 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Ingleby Arncliff or Ingleby Cross in an ensuite room

This is an exhilarating walk that begins with a steep climb up through Arncliffe Wood. Continue onto the wild upland moors covered with heather, with grand views over the Vale of Mowbray now far below. On a clear day, you can see back to the Pennine Hills, or even catch a glimpse of the North Sea! The remains of ancient burial sites abound here. Just look for the word tumulus or howe on your map. The Lord Stones Café, ingeniously built into the hillside, offers a nice spot for a coffee or lunch. A last push over the Wain Stones at Hasty Bank to descend to the road at Clay Bank Top, the end of the walk for today. You will be transferred to your accommodation.

Walks: Moderate / 18.5 km / 6 hrs
Ascent: 775 m / Descent: 570 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Broughton, Urra, or Chop Gate in an ensuite room

An easier day but one that begins with a steep climb to the top of Urra Moor. From there, follow the wide track over this upland heath-covered plateau. Keep your eyes peeled for ancient carved stones and old estate boundary markers. Part of the walk today is along the trail of the former Rosedale Ironstone Railway which used to serve the nearby mines over 150 years ago. With views on a clear day over the pretty Farndale valley, you will soon arrive at the road by Blakey Ridge and the historic Lion Inn. This is a great place to stay if they have room for you. This funky rustic establishment has been offering refreshments and accommodation to travellers for centuries! At the very least, have a break and enjoy a hot or cold beverage. You will be transferred to your accommodation if not staying at the Lion Inn.

Walks: Easy / 14 km / 4 hrs
Ascent: 310 m / Descent: 180 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Blakey Ridge in an ensuite room

A short walk along the road from the Lion Inn brings you past a prehistoric standing stone to Young Ralph’s Cross, the medieval stone marker featured on the emblem for the North York Moors National Park. Turning off onto a quiet country lane, you pass the squat white “wheel cross” known affectionately as Fat Betty, which may also be medieval, or far older. It is traditional for travellers to leave a food offering here. Make sure it’s not a muesli bar though – the grouse often use this cross as a feeding table! Easy moorland walking with views over the beautiful Great Fryup Dale (the name is a derivation of the Old Norse for the goddess Freya and hop meaning valley), along Glaisdale Rigg, and finally down into the village of Glaisdale.

Walks: Moderate / 16 km / 4-5 hrs
Ascent: 110 m / Descent: 410 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Glaisdale in an ensuite room

A lovely day of walking through the Esk Valley featuring cosy English villages nestled in gentle bucolic hills. For sheer charm, only the Lake District villages come even close. Through the village of Egton Bridge to Grosmont, home of the North York Moors Railway. Run by volunteers as a non-profit organisation, the steam trains here were some of those featured in the Harry Potter movies. Perhaps take a ride on one to the nearby village of Goathland and walk back to Grosmont along the rail trail. There are good cafés here too. Continuing on, there’s a last steep climb up to the top of Sleights Moor where you’ll get great views of the North Sea. You’re almost there!

Walks: Easy / 13 km / 4 hrs
Ascent: 370 m / Descent: 320 m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Littlebeck in an ensuite room

Your last day on the Coast to Coast and it’s a spectacular one. From Littlebeck, walk through leafy woodlands to the Falling Foss Falls near Midge House Tearooms. Continue along the merry stream of May Beck before meeting up with country lanes for the gentle ascent to the top of the Graystone Hills moor. Then along a few more country lanes to the village of High Hawsker before reaching the tall sea cliffs north of Robin Hoods Bay. What a finale! Only a few km more, until finally, as you come over the last rise, your destination is revealed before you. Continue down through the village to the Bay Hotel at the very bottom to the sign proclaiming the official endpoint of the Coast to Coast – 192 Miles from St Bees (309 km). What an achievement and what an adventure!

Walks: Moderate / 18.5 km / 6 hrs
Ascent: 435m / Descent: 550m
Meals: Cooked breakfast and walkers lunch
Accommodation: Robin Hood’s Bay in an ensuite room

After breakfast, the trip officially ends. This is a beautiful place to rest and take some time out. There’s also the opportunity to wander through the cobbled streets or take a beach walk.

Meals: Cooked breakfast