CAMINO LE PUY (VIA PONDIENSIS)

The History of the Camino Inglés and How It Differs from Other Caminos

The Le Puy Camino, or Via Podiensis, is one of the four historical routes through France leading pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Its significance dates back to the early Middle Ages. In 950 or 951 AD, Godescalc, the Bishop of Le Puy-en-Velay, undertook a pilgrimage to Santiago, marking him as the first recorded non-Hispanic pilgrim. This event significantly boosted the route’s prominence.

The Le Puy route became a vital artery for pilgrims from France, Switzerland, Germany, and beyond, heading towards the Iberian Peninsula to venerate the relics of Saint James. Over the centuries, it developed into a well-trodden path, dotted with churches, monasteries, and hospices catering to the needs of the faithful.

In recent times, the creation of the long-distance hiking trail GR65 in the 1970s helped revive interest in this ancient way. Today, the Le Puy Camino is celebrated for its stunning and varied landscapes, rich history, and spiritual resonance, attracting walkers and pilgrims from around the globe.

The Six Sections of the Camino Le Puy:

Section 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

• Total Distance: Approx. 90 km
• Typical Duration: 5-6 days
• What you’ll see: Starting in Le Puy-en-Velay, you’ll marvel at the dramatic volcanic formations crowned by the Notre-Dame Cathedral and Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe chapel. The initial days involve significant climbs out of the Puy basin, traversing the green, undulating Velay mountains. You’ll pass through charming hamlets like Saint-Privat-d’Allier and Saugues, experiencing a mix of rural landscapes, forests, and open plains. The terrain is notably hilly in the beginning, offering expansive views. As you approach Aumont-Aubrac, the landscape gradually opens up to the vastness of the Margeride plateau, characterised by its distinctive stone houses and tranquil atmosphere, preparing you for the wilder Aubrac. Towns you will visit on this section:
• Le Puy-en-Velay: Starting point, famous for its volcanic plugs topped with the Notre-Dame Cathedral and Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe chapel. Rich in religious history.
• Saint-Privat-d’Allier: A small village in the Allier River valley, often a first stop with scenic river views.
• Saugues: A market town with a history linked to the Knights Hospitaller and known for its “Beast of Gévaudan” folklore.
• Aumont-Aubrac: Gateway to the high Aubrac plateau, a quiet town with a distinct character shaped by its location.

Section 2: Aumont-Aubrac to Conques

• Total Distance: Approx. 110 km
• Typical Duration: 7-8 days
• What you’ll see: This section immerses you in the raw beauty of the Aubrac plateau, a windswept, treeless expanse of pastures, dry stone walls, and isolated farmhouses. You’ll reach the route’s highest points here, experiencing a profound solitude. Picturesque villages like Nasbinals and Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac offer respite. As you descend from the Aubrac, the landscape softens, leading you into the lush Lot Valley. You’ll pass through “Most Beautiful Villages of France” like Saint-Côme-d’Olt and Estaing, with its impressive castle. The journey culminates in the breathtaking descent into Conques, a preserved medieval village dominated by its magnificent Abbey of Sainte-Foy, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
• Towns you will visit on this section:
• Nasbinals: Situated on the Aubrac plateau, known for its Romanesque church and the surrounding stark landscape.
• Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac: Another Aubrac village with a welcoming atmosphere and a beautiful church.
• Espalion: Located on the Lot River, with a notable “Pont Vieux” (old bridge) and a charming town centre.
• Estaing: Classified as one of France’s “Most Beautiful Villages,” dominated by its impressive castle overlooking the Lot River.
• Conques: A stunning, preserved medieval village famous for its Romanesque Abbey of Sainte-Foy and its treasury.

Section 3: Conques to Cahors

• Total Distance: Approx. 135 km
• Typical Duration: 8 days
• What you’ll see: Departing the enchanting Conques, you’ll cross its medieval bridge and ascend through forests and fields. This section takes you across the limestone causses (plateaus) of Quercy, characterised by oak woodlands, ancient drystone walls, and scattered hamlets. You’ll encounter historic towns like Figeac, with its rich medieval heritage, and pass through tranquil rural areas. The path often follows ancient tracks, revealing dolmens and shepherd shelters. The journey concludes with the approach to Cahors, a city famed for its iconic Pont Valentré, a fortified medieval bridge that dramatically spans the Lot River, marking a significant historical and architectural highlight.
• Towns you will visit on this section:
• Figeac: A town with a rich medieval history, known for being the birthplace of Jean-François Champollion (who deciphered the Rosetta Stone).
• Cajarc: A picturesque village on the banks of the Lot River, surrounded by dramatic cliffs.
• Limogne-en-Quercy: A typical village of the Causses region, surrounded by oak forests and dolmens.
• Cahors: A historic city famous for its well-preserved medieval Pont Valentré bridge and its cathedral. Known for its Malbec wine.

Section 4: Cahors to Lectoure

• Total Distance: Approx. 120 km
• Typical Duration: 7 days
• What you’ll see: Leaving the historical city of Cahors, you’ll traverse a landscape of rolling hills and fertile agricultural land, characteristic of the Quercy region. The path leads through charming bastide towns such as Montcuq and Lauzerte, perched atop hillsides offering panoramic views. As you continue, the terrain gradually flattens towards the Garonne plain. A significant highlight is the magnificent Abbey of Saint-Pierre in Moissac, renowned for its exquisite Romanesque cloister. The section concludes in Lectoure, a fortified hilltop town with a rich history and impressive ramparts, providing a taste of Gascon charm.
• Towns you will visit on this section:
• Montcuq: A hilltop bastide town offering panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
• Lauzerte: Another beautiful bastide town perched on a hill, known for its charming squares and views.
• Moissac: Renowned for its Abbey of Saint-Pierre, particularly its magnificent Romanesque cloister and tympanum.
• Lectoure: A fortified hilltop town with a rich history, thermal baths, and panoramic views over the Gers region.

Section 5: Lectoure to Aire-sur-l’Adour

• Total Distance: Approx. 110 km
• Typical Duration: 7 days
• What you’ll see: This section delves into the heart of Gascony, a region celebrated for its gastronomy and rolling countryside. You’ll walk through picturesque vineyards, particularly those producing Armagnac brandy, and pass through charming market towns like Condom and Eauze. The landscape is characterised by gentle undulations, fields of sunflowers (in summer), and traditional Gascon farmhouses. The path often follows quiet country lanes and tracks, offering a peaceful and immersive experience of rural France. The journey culminates in Aire-sur-l’Adour, a historic town on the Adour River, signifying your closer proximity to the Pyrenees.
• Towns you will visit on this section:
• Condom: A town on the Baïse River, historically significant for its role in the Armagnac trade.
• Eauze: Considered the ancient capital of Novempopulania and known for its Roman archaeological sites and Armagnac production.
• Nogaro is a town famous for its motor racing circuit and association with Armagnac.
• Aire-sur-l’Adour: A historic town on the Adour River, with a Romanesque church and a lively market.

Section 6: Aire-sur-l’Adour to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

• Total Distance: Approx. 165 km
• Typical Duration: 8-9 days
• What you’ll see: The final section gradually transitions from the rolling hills of Gascony to the foothills of the mighty Pyrenees. The terrain becomes more undulating, and you’ll begin to see the mountains in the distance. You’ll pass through the distinctive Basque Country, with its unique culture, language, and charming red-roofed villages like Navarrenx. The final days involve a more challenging ascent into the lower Pyrenees, offering increasingly dramatic mountain scenery. The culmination is the arrival in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a historic fortified town nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees, serving as the traditional starting point for the Camino Francés into Spain.
• Towns you will visit on this section:
• Arzacq-Arraziguet: A market town in the heart of the Béarn region, known for its traditional architecture.
• Navarrenx: The oldest bastide town in Béarn, with impressive fortifications.
• Saint-Palais: A significant crossroads for pilgrims, where the Le Puy, Vézelay, and Tours routes converge before heading to the Pyrenees.
• Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port: A charming fortified town at the foot of the Pyrenees, the traditional starting point for the Camino Francés in France.

The Overall Differences Between the Sections

The Camino Le Puy offers a remarkable progression of French landscapes and cultures. The initial stages (1 & 2) are characterised by the challenging volcanic terrain of the Velay and the wild, exposed beauty of the Aubrac plateau, demanding good fitness. As the route moves south (sections 3 & 4), the scenery softens to the limestone causses and river valleys of the Lot and Quercy, featuring medieval villages and historical architecture. The latter parts (sections 5 & 6) transition into the gentler, agricultural rolling hills of Gascony, known for its vineyards and culinary delights, before culminating in the more demanding, mountainous approach to the Pyrenees and the distinct Basque culture. Each section provides a unique blend of physical challenge, natural beauty, and cultural immersion, ensuring a constantly evolving and rewarding pilgrimage experience.