Camino Frances Stage 3: Burgos to Leon – 11 Days

Arrive in the beautiful town of Burgos. Give yourself time to explore the town and its cathedral. There are many places to eat and enjoy Tapas in Burgos, so why not take in the vibrant Spanish culture before setting out tomorrow on the Camino?

Accommodation: Hotel Rice Palacio de los Blasones, or Hotel Alda Entrearcos, or a similar standard in Burgos

You will head back into nature as you depart Burgos and pass through the crop fields that are scattered over the landscape of this region. You will then pass through a historic site where Europe’s largest forests once stood before arriving in Hontanas. Having passed through a number of small settlements, the trail crosses grazing pastures and past the fountain, Fuente de Prao Torre, from where you will begin a steady climb. As the trail flattens, you are greeted with impressive views across the region of the Meseta ahead of you. It’s then downhill into Hornillos del Camino.

Walk: 21km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Rice Palacio de los Blasones, Hotel Alda Entrearcos, or a similar standard in Burgos

Today, you will get your fair share of beautiful scenery as you pass through hills and pastured river valleys of the province of Palencia. As you get close to the town of Castrojeriz, you will see the ruins of the 9th-century castle, Castrojeriz “El Castillo”, up on the hillside. If you have some energy left in your legs after today’s walking, there are good views to be had from the castle ruins.

Walk: 21km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: La Posada de Castrojeriz or Iacobus or of a similar standard in Castrojeriz

After leaving Castrojeriz, pass the Canal de Castilla. This complex network of canals was built between the 18th and 19th centuries to serve as a transport route for Castilians, before the construction of the railway rendered it disused. With very little shade on hot, sunny days, the small hamlets you will pass through are a welcome relief for all Camino walkers. The rolling descent into Fromista leads you into a rich agricultural region. Although a small town, Fromista boasts two national monuments: the 11th-century Iglesia de San Martín (built as part of a Benedictine Monastery) and the Iglesia Santa María del Castillo (famed for its altarpiece of 29 paintings).

Walk: 25.5km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel San Martín, Hotel Oasibeth, or a similar standard in Frómista

You will next pass through the town of Población de Campos before coming to Villalcázar de Sirga, where you can view the fantastic Templar church of Santa María la Blanca. Built by the Knights Templar, the structure you see today is only a fraction of the original, as it was significantly damaged by Napoleon’s troops during the Napoleonic Wars. We then continue to the day’s final destination, Carrión de los Condes. This historic town sits upon the banks of the Carrión River. Historically, great walls divided the town into different neighbourhoods. Today, you can still see the remains of these massive walls, along with various churches and other notable architectural structures.

Walk: 20km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: La Corte or Hotel Real Monasterio San Zoilo or of a similar standard in Carrión de los Condes

Although a long distance, the route is predominantly flat. Depart Carrion de los Condes and head over the 16th-century bridge as the route follows an old Roman road known as the Via Aquitania. For Centuries this road was a vital pilgrimage route and trading link between the cities of Burgos and Astorga. Follow the River Uciesa through more developed areas to finish at the village of Calzadilla de la Cueza (17km) or continue through to the village of Ledigos (23km).

Walk: 17km or 23km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hostal Restaurante Camino Real or Albergue La Morena of a similar standard in Calzadilla de la Cueza or Ledigos

Just after leaving the village of Calzadilla de la Cueza, you will see the remains of what was a significant 11th-century pilgrim hospital. Pass through the village of Ledigos and continue on to Terradillos de Los Templarios. Walk through the town of San Nicolás de Real Camino and past the remains of the 12th century hermitage Ermita Virgen del Puente. The two statues that stand guard at the gateway of the Centro Geográfico del Camino mark the official halfway point of the Camino Frances. Finish today’s walk in the town of Sahagun.

Walk: 22km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hostal San Juan or something of a similar standard in Sahagun

Today, you will once again pass through farmland. You will have a relaxed journey on this stretch as you pass over an ancient bridge and by other historic structures before reaching Bercianos del Real Camino. Iglesia de San Salvador is located in a population of only 200. Continue through several valleys and over the Valderaduey River into the province of Leon. As you continue, you will depart the expansive Tierra de Campos and head across a patchwork of fertile crop fields to El Burgo Ranero. Long before you arrive, you can see the large grain silos of Burgo in the distance.

Walk: 20km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation:  Hostal San Juan or of a similar standard in Sahagun

After walking through a number of small villages, the landscape begins to roll as you reach the old Roman settlement of Reliegos. In a bygone era, Reliegos was a significant transport centre, being at the junction of three important trading roads. Leaving the village, the track becomes a little rocky as you make your way to Mansilla, which can be seen in the distance. On arrival, walk through the medieval gate of Castillo and into Plaza del Pozo, where you can find several delicious pastelerias serving flaky, sweet pastries.

Walk: 19km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hostal La Alberguería del Camino, or Hotel Rural Astura, or a similar standard in Mansilla de las Mulas

Today, you will leave behind the scenic crops and once again come across signs of civilisation as you get closer to the city of Leon. After an hour, you will reach the village of Villamoros de Mansilla; the next village, Puente Villarente, is just half an hour further. After Valdelafuente, you will pass through an industrial area, a clear sign that a bigger city is not far away. The bridge of Puente Castro takes you into Leon. Be sure to explore this ancient area, which was the capital of the Leon kingdom in the Middle Ages. Some interesting places to visit are the old Convento de San Marcos and the Cathedral of Leon – Pulchra Leonina, often called the Sistine Chapel of Spanish architecture. From the vantage point of Portillo Hill, you will enjoy excellent views across to Leon.

Walk: 19km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: El rincón del Conde or Hotel Silken Luis de León or a similar standard in León

A vibrant city, Leon’s history is depicted through its wealth of fine architecture. Home to one of Spain’s most significant Renaissance buildings. The Convento de San Marcos dates back to the 12th century and was originally built as a hospital-shelter for pilgrims travelling along the Camino. Leon also boasts Casa Botines, the work of Antoni Gaudí (the characteristics of which he used in his later work in the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona). Later in the evening, stroll the historic narrow streets, bursting with lively tapas bars and restaurants.

Depending on your onward travel plans, you can spend the morning soaking up the plaza’s atmosphere before heading home.

Meals Included: Breakfast