Camino Frances Stage 4: Leon to Sarria – 11 Days

A vibrant city, Leon is one of the most popular starting points along the Camino trail and for good reason! Its history is depicted through a wealth of fine architecture. Home to one of Spain’s most significant Renaissance buildings, the Convento de San Marcos, dates back to the 12th century and was originally built as a hospital shelter for pilgrims travelling along the Camino. Leon also boasts Casa Botines, the work of Antoni Gaudi for which he used the characteristics in the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona. Later in the evening, stroll the historic narrow streets, bursting with lively tapas bars and restaurants.

Meals included: None
Accommodation: Hotel Luis Silken Leon
A 10-minute walk from the old city walls and glorious cathedral, this hotel occupies a prime position in the heart of Leon. Comfortable en-suite rooms are equipped with extensive amenities. The hotel bar serves a wide range of cocktails and if you arrive late you can also enjoy a bite to eat from the hotel restaurant.

Your Camino journey begins by leaving Leon on foot. Having walked through the urban outskirts, you’ll head out onto trails with far-reaching views across to the mountain tops of the Picos de Europa. En-route to Mazaarife, you’ll head over the Passo Honroso Puente, a 200m long medieval bridge with 20 arch-shaped spans which pilgrims have been crossing since the 12th century. In early June each year, a colourful jousting festival takes place in honour of the knight, Don Suero, who challenged all knights that dared to cross the bridge as a display of his affections for his love.

Walk: 23km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Nuestra Señora de Lourdes
This hotel offers the feeling of a real homestay. Your host, Lola, has created a welcoming and peaceful garden to rest the legs after a day on the trail. Rooms are lovingly decorated with classic furniture and for breakfast, Lola makes a variety of fresh dishes using seasonal ingredients.

A fairly easy-going walk today across farmland and through villages as you cross the fertile plains of the Orbigo River. Head through the hamlets of Villares, Santibanez de Valdeiglesias and lastly San Justo de la Vega before a short climb to your overnight stay in the town of Astorga. Founded in 14BC by the Romans, some of the original Roman walls can be seen at the edge of the town. You can also visit the impressive Episcopal Palace, designed by Gaudi and if you have time, visit the chocolate museum which recreates an old chocolate shop of the late 1800s.

Walk: 30km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Spa Cuidad de Astorga
A perfectly placed hotel, next to the most famous monuments in Astorga (including the cathedral and the Gaudí Palace. A classically historic building with a contemporary interior, this 4* award-winning hotel has an indoor pool and sauna and The hotel restaurant, Chalet de Josele Restaurant serves traditional Castilian food.

A gentle incline across farmland leads through the region of la Maragateria to the sleepy layover of Rabanal del Camino. Alternating between open plains and trails of heather and oak trees, the small patches of forest have offered shade for many Camino hikers over the years on the ascent to Rabanal del Camino. Although a minor stopover for today’s walkers, Rabanal was a significant town during the middle ages as it had many churches and a hospital founded and run by templar monks.

Walk: 21.5km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hostel el Refugio
Centrally located, this accommodation is well-known for its a cosy and welcoming atmosphere. A typical stone building with wooden beam ceilings, the hotel’s restaurant is a popular choice for all walkers passing through the town.

Leaving Rabanal, the route climbs towards the high point of ‘Cruz Ferro’ (iron cross). At just 1500m, take a moment to enjoy the far-reaching views across the Camino. There are many theories as to the origins of the cross, but it is believed to have been erected in the 11th century. Traditionally pilgrims will leave a small rock with a message on it for loved ones which they have bought with them from home. From the cross, the route descends into the delightful village of Molinaseca.

Walk: 26.5km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hostel Casa Rural el Palacio
Situated close to the river Hostel Casa Rural features a garden, bar and en-suite rooms. Only a few minutes walk from cafes, restaurants and the San Nicolas Church, this accommodation provides a comfortable stay.

Within a couple of hours of leaving Molinaseca, you will reach Ponferrada, a former outpost of the Knights of the Templar. Do take time here to explore the magnificent castle which once housed the knights. With an abundance of cafes, it is a great opportunity to sample the traditional Camino almond cake and café con leche. Walking onwards to Villafranca, pass through the wine region of Bierzo and several small villages before arriving at Villafranca del Bierzo.

Walk: 31km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel La Puerta del Perdón
A friendly and rustic guesthouse, your hosts welcome you with iced lemon water and invite you to relax in their homes. Comfortable rooms and a breakfast with fresh fruits, homemade cakes and excellent coffee are the perfect set-up for another day on the Camino.

Today walk to the farming hamlet of Herrerias de Valcarce, the penultimate stop in Castilla y Leon before crossing into Galicia. The familiar scallop shell markers guide you on your way across rolling farmland and deep into a lush valley, as you follow the Valcarce River. There are some steep climbs today so we would suggest leaving in good time to allow plenty of time to take the day at a steady pace. This is one of the most challenging days.

Walk: 18km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Posada Real Paraiso del Bierzo
A boutique-style hotel, located on the Camino Frances trail. After ascending to the hotel, enjoy a sundowner on the patio before heading to your en-suite room to freshen up. You can eat at the hotel or head to one of the nearby cafes. This family-run hotel is always popular with walkers.

Set off early so you can pace yourself on the steady climb to O Cebreiro. On arrival, take the opportunity to rest and explore the dry-stone houses complete with thatched roofs in the most charming of settings! In the town, you may even encounter musicians playing folk music with a ‘galleta galleo’ (bagpipes), which stems from the Celtic connection in the middle ages.

Walk: 9km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel O’Cebreiro
A typical rural stone house which over the centuries has been a prison and town hall. Since 2002 the property has been welcoming Camino walkers into the comfortable lodgings. With only 5 en-suite rooms, the property has managed to keep the traditional stone walls and chestnut wood beams.

Having completed a couple of days of climbing, you can enjoy a predominantly downhill trail to Triacastela. Peppered with hamlets and villages, there are plenty of opportunities today to take a break from the downhill, find some shade and rest the feet. Although destroyed by the Normans in the 10th century, Tricastela was named after the 3 castles surrounding the settlement. Nowadays this is the last stop before joining the final 100km of the Camino at Sarria the following night.

Walk: 22km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Casa David
A simple Camino hotel, equipped with en-suite rooms and a laundromat. The hotel also boasts a garden with a view along with a café and bar where you can get refreshments on arrival. The nearby Plaza la Iglesia is only a couple of minute’s walk where there are further cafes, restaurants and bars to choose from.

Today you can choose from 2 routes. Follow a trail through a succession of villages to Samos, where you will enjoy spectacular views of the Galician mountains to the east. Here you can visit the remarkable Benedictine Monastery, a significant stop on the Way of St. James and a real highlight of the Camino Frances. Alternatively, you can take a rural route towards Sarria, which is a little shorter (and omits the visit to Samos). On arrival into Sarria, seek out the historic streets where you can visit the 13th-century ‘O’Salvador’ gothic church and the medieval fortress of Sarria.

Walk: 25km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Alfonso IX
Begin your Camino in the comfortable Hotel Alfonso, located in central Sarria which means you can easily join the Camino trail the next morning. All rooms have their own bathroom and there is a small cafe to grab a cafe con leche before heading out to further explore Sarria.

Depending on your onward travel plans, you can spend the morning soaking up the atmosphere of Sarria and the Camino before heading off on your journey home.

Meals Included: Breakfast