Camino Frances Stage 3: Burgos to Leon – 11 Days

Arrive in the beautiful town of Burgos. Give yourself time to explore the town and its cathedral. There are many places to eat and enjoy Tapas in Burgos, so why not enjoy the vibrant Spanish culture before setting out tomorrow on the Camino.

Accommodation: Hotel Norte y Londres (or something similar)
In the heart of the historical quarter, the hotel is less than a couple of minutes’ walk from the grand cathedral, overlooking the pedestrian Plaza de Alonso Martinez. Hop between cafes and wine bars, sampling the best local specialities and enjoy being part of the lively theatre found in tapas bars.

You will head back into nature as you depart Burgos and pass through the crop fields that scatter the landscape of this region. You will then pass through the historical site where the largest forests of Europe once existed before arriving in Hontanas. Having passed through a number of small settlements the trail crosses grazing pastures and past the fountain, ‘Fuente de Prao Torre’ from where you will begin a steady climb. As the trail flattens, you are greeted with impressive views across the region of Meseta ahead of you. Its then downhill into Hornillos del Camino.

Walk: 21km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hornillos Meeting Point. (or something similar) A very humble Camino accommodation. The Meeting Point is a straightforward guest house that welcomes many Camino walkers through its doors each day. Unfussy and uncomplicated, rooms are basic but the atmosphere is warm, which makes this a very enjoyable stay on the Camino.

The first leg of this day’s trek will take you on an ascent to a plateau, followed by a further descent into the valley of the River Bol. Today you will get your fair share of beautiful scenery as you pass through crops and pastures, hills and valleys of the rivers Odrilla and Pisuerga. You will pass through the last plains of the region as you follow the river Pisuerga towards the province of Palenica and to the final destination of the day, Boadilla. Here you will be able to explore and visit the beautiful “La Asuncion”, a 14th century gothic church.  Before arriving into Castrojeriz you will see the 9th century ruins of Castrojeriz up on the hillside. The village roots date back to Celtic times and should you have the energy in your legs, some of the best views on today’s walk are from the 9th century castle ruins high above Castrojeriz.

Walk: 21km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel la Cachava (or something similar)
Within a short distance on arriving into Castrojeriz, you will reach this welcoming, family run hotel. Enjoy the private courtyard where you can also dine, enjoy a drink or simply relax with your book. With the feel of family stay, rather than a hotel, the friendly are always to help you with anything you may need during your stay.

After leaving Castroojoriz pass the Canal de Castilla, with its complex network of canals built between the 18th and 19th centuries. These canals were used as a transport route for Castilian cereal before the construction of a railway saw it become unused. Another place of note in this area is the church of San Martín, which was built all the way back in the 11th century.  With very little shade on hot, sunny days, the small hamlets you will pass through are a welcome relief for all Camino walkers. The rolling descent into Fromista leads you into a rich agricultural region. Although a small town, Fromista boasts two national monuments; the 11th century Igelsia de San Martin de tours (built as part of a Benedeictine Monastery) and the Iglesia Santa Maria del Castillo, famed for its altarpiece of 29 paintings.

Walk: 25.5km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: A rustic property with sun terrace. Originally built as an inn for pilgrims, this property has been expanded to cater for modern-day Camino walkers. You are welcomed by the grandeur of 7 original Roman style stone pillars. You choose between dining in the hotel restaurant or heading out to a local cafe in Fromista.

You will next pass through the town of Población de Campos before coming to Villalcázar de Sirga where you can view the fantastic Templar church of Santa María la Blanca, with its transitional architecture blending Roman and Gothic styles. The village is dominated by the Church of the White Virgin, built by the knights of the Templar, though what you will see is only a fraction of the original building as it was significantly damaged by Napoleon’s troops during the Napoleonic wars.

After leaving here we head towards the final destination of the day, Carrión de los Condes. This historical town sits upon the banks of the Carrión River. In the past, great walls divided the town into different neighbourhoods. Today, you can still view the various churches and other great architectural buildings.

Walk: 20km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: La Corte (or something similar)
Walk straight off the route into La Corte. Located opposite the Church of Santa Maria del Camino, all rooms feature an en-suite bathroom and a popular restaurant serving regional dishes such as lamb chops and seared vegetables.

Although a long distance, the route is predominantly flat today. Depart Carrión and head over the 16th century bridge as the route follows an old Roman road, known as the Via Aquitania. For centuries this provided a vital pilgrimage and trading link between Burgos and Astorga. The path today is quite straightforward as you follow the river Uciesa through developed areas, which is a change from the rural scenery you would have seen a lot of so far. You will pass many rest areas before coming to Villalcazar de Sirga, which is a historical Campos village. From here you will head towards the final destination of the day, Ledigos to rest and recover.

Walk: 16km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Room with ensuite

Just after leaving the village of Calzadilla de la Cueza you will see the remains of what was a significant 11th century hospital. Reaching Terradillos means you have completed almost half of the Camino France.The town of Terradillos de Los Templarios, has a history of being a Knight’s Templar stronghold, but there are no remaining ruins or structures unfortunately.  Walk through the town of San Nicolás de Real Camino and past the remains of the hermitage Ermita Virgen del Puente XIIth C. The two statues (Priest & Knights Templar) that stand guard at the entrance face each other and the gateway Centro Geográfico del Camino – the official halfway point.

Walk: 22km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Albergue los Templarios (or something similar)
Purpose built for Camino walkers and cyclists, this property is located within large grounds and has an extensive dining room, bar and laundry service (which is very useful at this stage of the walk). With ample space outside to find your own corner to relax, you can also easily find many other Camino walkers to swap stories with at the bar.

Today you will once again pass through farmland. You will have a relaxed journey on this stretch as you pass over an ancient bridge and by other historic structures before reaching Bercianos del Real Camino. Bercianos del Real Camino with a population of only 200 is where Iglesia de San Salvador is located. Today’s route crosses several valleys and over the Valderaduey River into the province of Leon. Breaking at Sahagun for lunch, As you continue, you will depart the expansive ‘Tierra de Campos’ and head across a patchwork of fertile crop fields to El Burgo Ranero. Long before you arrive you can see the large grain silos of Burgo in the distance.

Walk: 20km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation:  Hotel Castillo El Burgo (or something similar)
A functional overnight stay with access to a 24-hour store, shared lounge and restaurant. All rooms have their own bathroom. Only a 10-minute walk from the main Camino route, the hotel is just outside the village but with sufficient facilities enough for an overnight stay.

After walking through a number of small villages, the landscape begins to roll as you reach the old Roman settlement of Reliegos. In a bygone era, Reliegos was a significant transport centre being at the junction of three important trading roads. Leaving the village, the track becomes a little rocky as you make your way to Mansilla, which can be seen in the distance. On arrival, walk through the medieval gate of Castillo and into Plaza del Pozo where you can find several delicious pastelerias serving flaky sweet pastries.

Walk: 19km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: La Pension Blanca (or something similar)
In the heart of medieval Mansilla, this simple pension has en-suite rooms. Breakfast is served in the adjacent building and for dinner you can choose to dine in the neighbouring alberge or your host is happy to recommend a nearby restaurant in town.

On day 22 you will leave behind the scenic crops when once again you come across the signs of civilisation as you get closer to the city of Leon.  Crossing the Rio Elsa, sets you on the trail for Leon.  After an hour you will reach the village of Villamoros de Mansilla, the next village of Puente Villarente is just half an hour further. After Valdelafuente you will pass through an industrial area, a clear sign that a bigger city is not far away. Puente Castro is right before Leon and it is undistinguishable where Puente Castro ends and where Leon begins. Once you arrive, you will be able to explore this ancient area which was the capital of kingdom in the Middle Ages. Some interesting places to visit are the old Hospital de San Marcos and The Pulchra Leonina, which is often referred to as the ‘Sistine Chapel’ of Spanish architecture.  From the vantage point of Portillo Hill you will enjoy excellent views across to Leon.

Walk: 19km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Fernando (or something similar)
Only a few minutes from the old city walls and glorious cathedral, the hotel occupies a gothic building, typical of Leon’s architecture. In classic Camino pilgrim style, the rooms are simple and provide a good night’s rest after a long day on the track.

A vibrant city, Leon’s history is depicted through its wealth of fine architecture. Home to one of Spain’s most significant Renaissance buildings. The Convento de San Marcos dates back to the 12th century and was originally built as a hospital-shelter for pilgrims travelling along the Camino. Leon also boasts Casa Botines, the work of Antoni Guadi (the characteristics of which he used in his later work in the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona). Later in the evening, stroll the historic narrow streets, bursting with lively tapas bars and restaurants.

Depending on your onward travel plans, you can spend the morning soaking up the atmosphere of the plaza before heading off on your journey home.

Meals Included: Breakfast