Camino Frances Stage 4: Leon to Sarria – 11 Days

A vibrant city, Leon is one of the most popular starting points along the Camino trail and for good reason! Its history is depicted through a wealth of fine architecture. Home to one of Spain’s most significant Renaissance buildings, the Convento de San Marcos, dates back to the 12th century and was originally built as a hospital shelter for pilgrims travelling along the Camino. Leon also boasts Casa Botines, the work of Antoni Gaudi for which he used the characteristics in the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona. Later in the evening, stroll the historic narrow streets, bursting with lively tapas bars and restaurants.

Meals included: None
Accommodation: El rincón del Conde or Hotel Silken Luis de León or of a similar standard in León

Your Camino journey begins by leaving Leon on foot. Walk from the urban outskirts passing through the hilltop suburb of La Virgen del Camino with its large modern Basilica. Built on the ruins of a 17th Century church, the façade features 13 images by famous sculptor José María Subirachs. Pass through a series of small villages and end the day in Villar de Mazarife.

Walk: 23km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Mesón Albergue Tío Pepe or of a similar standard in Mazarife

From Villar de Mazarife, continue through farmlands to the medieval town of Hospital de Orbigo crossing the 200m-long arched bridge of Paso Honroso (“Honourable Crossing”) which dates from the 12 th Century. In June each year, the town hosts a colourful festival to commemorate the medieval knight, Don Suero, who famously challenged all comers to joust with him on the Paso Honroso as a display of his affection for his true love. The Camino continues through the small hamlets before a short climb to the larger hilltop town of Astorga, your destination for today. Founded by the Romans in 14BC, the remains of some of the original Roman walls and ruins of Roman villas with beautiful mosaic floors can still be seen. You can also visit Gaudi’s impressive Episcopal Palace, the Astorga Cathedral, and if you have time, the chocolate museum which recreates the ambiance of a chocolate shop in the late 1800s.

Walk: 30km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Gaudí Astorga or Hotel Spa Ciudad de Astorga or of a similar standard in Astorga

A gentle incline across farmland leads through the region of la Maragateria.  Alternating between open plains and trails of heather and oak trees, the small patches of forest have offered shade for many a Camino hiker over the years on the ascent to the sleepy village of Rabanal del Camino. Rabanal was once a significant town during the middle ages with many churches and a hospital founded and run by Templar monks.

Walk: 21.5km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: La Posada Gaspar or Posada el Tesín or of a similar standard in Rabanal del Camino

Leaving Rabanal, the route climbs towards the high point of Cruz Ferro (iron cross). At just 1500m, take a moment to enjoy the far-reaching views across the Camino. There are many theories as to the origins of the cross, but it is believed to have been erected in the 11th century. Traditionally, pilgrims will leave a small rock with a message on it for loved ones who they have bought from home. From the cross, the route descends into the delightful village of Molinaseca. This is your destination today or continue to Ponferrada.

Walk: 26.5km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Aroi Bierzo Plaza or Hotel Alda Centro Ponferrada or of a similar standard in Ponferrada

Within a couple of hours of leaving Molinaseca, you will reach Ponferrada, a former outpost of the Knights of the Templar. Do take time here to explore the magnificent castle which is said to have once housed the knights. With an abundance of cafes, this is also a great opportunity to sample the traditional Camino almond cake and café con leche. Walking onwards to Villafranca, enter the wine region of Bierzo and pass through several small villages before arriving at Villafranca del Bierzo.

Walk: 31km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel La Puerta del Perdón or Hostal Restaurante Méndez “El Guardia” or of a similar standard in Villafranca del Bierzo

Today walk to the farming hamlet of Herrerias de Valcarce, the penultimate stop in Castilla y Leon before crossing into Galicia. The familiar scallop shell markers guide you on your way across rolling farmland and deep into a lush valley, as you follow the Valcarce River. There are some steep climbs today so we would suggest leaving in good time to allow plenty of time to take the day at a steady pace. This is one of the most challenging days.

Walk: 18km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Posada Real Paraiso del Bierzo or of a similar standard in Las Herrerias

Set off early so you can pace yourself on the steady climb to O Cebreiro. On arrival, take the opportunity to rest and explore the dry-stone houses complete with thatched roofs in the most charming of settings! In the town, you may even encounter musicians playing folk music with a ‘galleta galleo’ (bagpipes), which stems from the Celtic connection in the middle ages.

Walk: 9km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Casa Carolo or Hotel O Cebreiro or of a similar standard in O Cebreiro

Having completed a couple of days of climbing, you can enjoy a gently undulating trail to Triacastela. Peppered with hamlets and villages, there are plenty of opportunities today to take a break, find some shade and rest your feet. Although destroyed by the Normans in the 10th century, Tricastela was named after the 3 castles surrounding the settlement.

Walk: 22km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Complexo Xacobeo Albergue & Pensión or Pension Casa Simón or of a similar standard in Triacastela

Today you can choose from 2 routes. Follow a trail through a succession of villages to Samos, where you will enjoy spectacular views of the Galician mountains to the east. Here you can visit the remarkable Benedictine Monastery, a significant stop on the Way of St. James and a real highlight of the Camino Frances. Alternatively, you can take a rural route towards Sarria, which is a little shorter (and omits the visit to Samos). On arrival into Sarria, seek out the historic streets where you can visit the 13th-century ‘O’Salvador’ gothic church and the medieval fortress of Sarria.

Walk: 25km
Meals Included: Breakfast
Accommodation: Hotel Alfonso IX or Duerming Villa de Sarria or of a similar standard in Sarria

Depending on your onward travel plans, you can spend the morning soaking up the atmosphere of Sarria and the Camino before heading off on your journey home.

Meals Included: Breakfast